A first glance at the rigorously tight menu at Concura tells you this is not your usual Houston Italian restaurant. Cod liver foie gras, fish ragu over house-made chitarini, “tomato bread bowl”… what is going on here in the city of endless carbonaras, pizzas and filled ravioli?
I’ve maintained for years now that “when in doubt, open an Italian restaurant” is a way to make bank in this town. Houstonians seem to have an endless appetite for the comforting verities of the cuisine as it has been interpreted here. In this uncertain pandemic age, that has been doubly true.